Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Baconara 2.0 (cheeseless carbonara, no cheese carbonara)

While it's mainly a technique update, the sauce texture is so much *reliably* improved from the previous iteration I think it merits an uprev.  My last version is good and all, but it was extremely difficult to get the appropriate level of "sauciness" out of the eggs- even when I was testing the old recipe regularly, I would have something like a 75% success rate.  

Inspired by, of all things, a cheesecake recipe involving tofu.  I'm also working on a vegetarian version using this emulsion technique with olive oil in place of bacon grease.  Don't worry, this dish doesn't use tofu, nor is it vegetarian.  It uses a pound of bacon and you eat all of the fat.  YES!

As to "why?" I say, "why not?"  No cheese in this carbonara spin off lets you taste the bacon and eggs all the more clearly.  Parmigiano, while extremely delicious, gets in the way of tasting that all-time classic smoky + yolky + mapley taste that any marvelously obese American knows about from the breakfast table.

1 lbs pasta (recommend spaghetti.  Spoonable pastas make this interesting too: e.g. "macaroni without cheese" is possible)
1 lbs bacon
6 eggs, yolks and whites separated
.5 cup frozen peas*
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 TB coarse ground black pepper
1 TB kosher salt (tested using diamond crystal)
1 TB pure maple syrup
2 TB apple cider vinegar, divided


Get water for cooking pasta boiling salted at 2 TB DCKS per gallon.  You probably only really need a quart if you're trying to do this fast.

Cut your bacon into slivers, about 1/4" long.  Fry until fat is rendered and bacon is completely crisped.  Don't worry, the fat's getting added back to the sauce: it's more important for texture accent that the bacon be very crisp.

Meanwhile, put the egg whites into a metal bowl with the maple syrup, minced garlic, and 1 TB of the vinegar.

Reserve the bacon, add the black pepper and cook until fragrant.  Use the other 1 TB of vinegar to deglaze the pan and cook until acid is gone.

Pour the bacon fat mixture into the egg whites- don't worry if it cooks a little.  Put the pasta in the boiling water.  Set the metal bowl over the pasta water, turning it into a double boiler. Stir the eggs as the bowl heats until the white just starts to set, then remove from the heat.  You'll get a clumpy white mess of egg white and grease that should be just barely runny.  Take this mess and puree it until very smooth.  I prefer to use an immersion blender.  It should look something like mayonnaise when you're done.  If it's too liquidy, return it to the bain marie and reblend it.  If it's too thick, you can dilute with pasta water (so long as its not too hot).  I've recently been messing with a puree sieve and a tamis, which yield astoundingly good textures, but I'm guessing most of y'all don't have those: the immersion blender should be plenty good anyways.

Add the frozen peas to the egg white puree.

As soon as the pasta is done After letting the pasta cool down for a good two minutes such that it won't cook the egg white, toss the pasta with the egg white/bacon puree and the peas if using.  Add the yolks to the pasta.  Add pasta water a tablespoon at a time and toss until you get a smooth, velvety sauce (probably .25 cups total).  Plate the pasta and top with the bacon, tossing briefly just before serving.

If you want to serve with whole yolks: mix the egg white puree plus peas with the pasta and get that creamy with pasta water as above.  Plate individual servings, swirling the noodles in one direction if using a stringy pasta to make a little nest  in the center of the plate (or just piling the pasta with a crater in the middle if using non-stringy pasta).  Deposit yolk in the nest and sprinkle bacon all around the centered yolks.  Tip: I use Chinese soup spoons to store the yolks while I'm doing everything else- keeps them ready to deposit on the final dishes when plating.

*For those who hate peas: try using minced Italian parsley as a garnish, though I really think the crisp *pop* of properly cooked peas add a whole lot to this dish past the green color.

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Coffee braised pork

Braise:
1.5-2 lbs pork shoulder cut to 1" cube
2 TB instant coffee
.25 cup dark brown sugar
1 head of garlic (8-10 cloves), peeled.
1 cup warm water

Creme Fraiche:
1 cup cream
2 TB buttermilk with active culture

Parsley Mint Oil:
1 bunch flat leaf parsley
1 bunch mint
~.5 to 1 cup oil

The flavor combo of coffee and mint comes from Philz.  The idea of putting pork in there comes from the higher-end dim sum places that typically offer coffee spare-ribs.  The overall structure of the recipe is heavily inspired by Charles Phan's claypot pork.

At least a day before, mix the cream and buttermilk and allow to sit in a non-reactive container somewhere until thick.  Salt and pepper the pork.  Dust the pork with flour.  Brown the pork in 50/50 butter oil (about 1 TB each in a normal sized pan).  Meanwhile, mix the coffee powder into the warm water.  Make a parchment lid that fits your cooking vessel.  Add the garlic to the pan once you are about 50% done with browning the pork and allow to fry as you finish browning.  Add the sugar to the pan and allow to caramelize into a very dark, very thick, not-quite-black sauce.  Immediately add the coffee mixture and deglaze the pan.  Put the parchment lid on the pan.  Simmer until tender, 30-45 minutes, turning the meat over halfway through cooking or put in the oven at 300F for about the same amount of time.  While the meat is braising, prepare the oil: twist off the thick stems of the parsley and mint.  Blend with .5 cup oil, adding just enough to allow the mixture to puree (depends on your blender: less oil is better).  Once the braise is tender, reduce the liquid if necessary until it coats the pork well without running off.

Serve with creme fraiche and garnish with the oil and puree.